The New Farm is Ours, Now the Work Begins

This thirty-five acre abandoned farm is now ours and soon the work will begin to relocate the Henny Penny Farm to its new home.

We have decided to keep the old farmhouse and restore it rather than to replace it with a brand new home.

The old house is in surprisingly good condition and has already been gutted to the framework, with the original stairway and some of the trim remain,  and new windows have been installed.

A new kitchen and bathroom have been framed at the rear of the building, in the ell.

An old barn stands where the pasture meets the woods and near a small, spring-fed pond.  The siding is worn, and missing in some places, but its big surprise was its interior which appears nearly new!  The framework is strong, and completely undamaged by time and the elements.  Even the metal roof is in excellent condition.  Bringing this building back to life will be a joy.

The small spring fed pond will be
 enlarged to at least 1/2 acre.

During this year we will be dividing our time downsizing and preparing to sell our CT homestead, and working on preparing the VA farm for our arrival.


It will be wonderful to see the goats reactions to having so much more space to roam and forage.  Of course one of our first projects will be to construct housing for them and the chickens.

The land is covered with 18 acres of grasses as tall as me, and there are 17 acres of woodland.

Our first trip is scheduled for the end of February when we will spend a weekend sweeping, and shoveling out the house in preparation to begin the restoration work.  As well as working in at clearing out overgrown brush, weeds and grasses around the house and spreading out from it as far as we can during our brief visit.

Can't wait to get started.  In the meantime there is plenty to do here in CT downsizing, getting rid lots of stuff and deciding what to keep, donate or trash.  Followed by getting the house ready to sell.

So much to do.  So much to look forward to.

Backyard Farm: Photos of the "Farm"

Eye level view of the new fencing for the garden and the goats.

The lower portions of the picket fencing and the goats pen are "lined" with chicken wire in order to keep chickens and wild critters out of the garden; and to keep chickens from wandering out of the goat pen.

There is a chicken wire "tunnel" which connects the chicken run with the goat pen and allows chickens to have full access to the goat pen as well as their own large run.

This view during fence installation shows more clearly the chicken run at the back of the garden.
The run is about 25' long x 8' deep and is beneath the trees and along the fenced property line.

The property behind is an early elementary school, grades K-5.  The children often bring their parents to visit the animals after school.
The teachers have also taken their young students to visit our turkeys at Thanksgiving.

I apologize for the dark areas at the tops of these photos, it's the camera strap peeking over the lens.

Another view during the installation; the yellow chicken house has two runs and the coop is divided inside by a chicken wire wall and door.
This is to keep young birds separate from the mature hens and their pecking order.

Cattle panels have been used for the goat pen; left-over panels are being used as support for the tomatoes. 

An old frame made from piping and wire, to form a mesh, is providing support for the cucumbers.

A view from "the street" looking in to the yard along the fence-line.

The goat pen was constructed from pressure treated 4x4's and 2x6's and 50" inch x 16 foot galvanized cattle panels.  The entire goat yard
measures about 30' x 20' with an ell about 8' x 12'.

We left the height of the 4x4's uncut in case we need to add additional height to the fence as the goats get bigger.

These goats are 4 months of age in this photo and are about half their adult size.

Inside the goat pen there is ample space for running and playing.  A teeter-totter, cable spool and child's slide keep them busy when they aren't playing tag with the chickens.
                       

 This overhead view was photographed through window screening and with electrical wiring in the way.  Please excuse the poor photo quality.

To the far left of the photo, along the neighbors fence, is our compost area consisting of 3 large bins made from rescued decking. 
At the upper left corner is the smaller of the two chicken runs.  We use this run for turkeys, ducks, and meat chicks before they are big enough for the chicken tractor and the larger fenced in pen.

 The larger chicken run, to the right of the coop, is situated along the neighbors chain-link fence and the back side of the garden.  It also meets with the back left corner of the goat pen where we added a chicken wire tunnel so the hens can easily roam from their run to the bigger goat pen.

Lots of worms, bugs and greens available for their foraging.


The goat yard measures approximately 30' left to right and 20' front to back.  There is also an additional section which adds another 8' x 12' to the back, left corner of their yard.  This is also the corner where the chickens can come and go.

At the front of the goat fence, about in the center, we have a hay bin made from left-over cattle panel.  The panel was measured and cut in a sort of + shape, and all four sides folded upward, and joined at the corner seams with zip-ties.  Longer  bits of the some of the wire were folded over to form hooks for hanging onto the fencing.

This is my favorite area!  It is where we grow my Kentucky Wonder green beans.  The frame is 8' wide x 16' long x 10' high (might be a bit higher)

There are 7 "joists" plus the two ends.  Twine used for baling hay is tied to the joists about 5" apart.  At the ground are 2"x2"x8" strips to which I tie the bottom end of the twice, about 5" apart.  By tying the lines so the wood strips float just above the ground the lines remain taut.
I plow a trench for each row and fill it with compost, burying the wood strips with the compost.  (The dark lines in the earth are these rows) 
At the bottom half of each end we added 2"x3" fencing (left-over) for additional vine support, such as for vining flowers like Morning Glory. 
Added bonus here, when nothing is being grown except flowers, it is a nice area for comfortable outdoor chairs; or, as we plan to try later this year, covered and wrapped with heavy plastic wrap, it can be used a a warm house to extend the growing season, or start seeds in the early spring.  It has full sun, all day, all year.
To the far left is the fenced area for meat birds.

This arch is the chicken tractor we use for the meat birds that are old enough to remain outdoors.  During the day, both ends remain open.  At night both ends go up, with the birds inside, for their protection.

Currently we have ducks living here.  Six Peking for meat, and 4 ducks of two other breeds for pets.  The area is enclosed with 2'x3' fencing, 48" tall. 

After the ducks have been processed, it will be time to move the meat chickens to the area; then turkeys.

Through the arbor at the rear of this area, is the front yard.  Next year, we plan to add an orchard and more garden there.  The orchard will have apples, peaches and pears all planted using the espalier method in order to get the most use from the limited space.

As you can see from these photos, we do not live out in the middle of nowhere.   Nor do we have a very large parcel of land.  What we do have is a carefully laid out site plan where we can get grow or raise most of our food.  We also earn a bit of money from the sale of our eggs which helps to pay for the feed and wood chips they will need in the winter.

Our goats will be ready for breeding around Thanksgiving.  I am searching for a suitable sire for their kids, which should be born in April.  At that time there will be plenty of fresh goats milk for drinking, for cheeses and for soap.  Much of which will be sold, including the kids.

From this garden I can, dehydrate, ferment, etc. enough food to last us until the next harvest.  

There is still much to accomplish such as collecting and storing water, converting our oil heat source to a sustainable wood heat system, building a green house and a root cellar.  In time we would also like to drill a well and be free of the water company.

We have looked into solar power for electricity but at this time the investment isn't doesn't make "cents" for the small amount of electric power we consume.

I hope this visual of the layout of our little homestead is helpful to you when you are planning your backyard farm.  Remember, this started with only 6 bags of potting soil!

Backyard Farm: Farm Animals - Chickens

At some point you may begin thinking about adding livestock to your little farm.  Raising animals is not for everyone, but, those who do take the step of adding animals to their life, are usually surprised at how the animals are so different from what they had expected.  They have personalities!  Even chickens have individual characteristics and endearing qualities.

"What?!" you say...  Yes indeed, each chicken is one of a kind.  I admit it, I always thought chickens were dumb as dirt, but they proved me wrong.  Chickens give more than just eggs and meat, they provide entertainment and also help reduce stress.

We bought our chickens as day old chicks (maybe they were more likely a week old).  Even at that
tender age there were two who stood out from the rest.  One was the most timid, the other was the "boss" and the other 11 birds gave way to her.  At least for a while.

Penny is the "Boss of the hen house"

As the weeks passed, and the little girls grew larger and stronger, they each became a bit more assertive and eventually the "boss" was ousted and another took over the lead.

Now, three years later, the pecking order has changed several times.  Most of them have names and we can tell by their individual sound which is "talking".


Chickens don't require much, a safe place to sleep at night and lay their eggs, food and water.  They

are natural foragers and spend much of their day outdoors eating grass and bugs.  The more they forage the better their eggs will taste, plus it will keep the feed expense low.

During the months between snow seasons, our hens find most of their meals in the yard.  This is supplemented with table-scraps.  Cracked corn is given as a treat, and feed pellets supplement during the months when they cannot forage.

Because of our location they have a fenced in "run" where they can run around, dig in the dirt, etc. when we are away.  Our chickens have been given lots of personal space both in the hen house and in
the run.

The hen house is 8' x 10' and we have found that 6 laying boxes is sufficient.  They also have two roosts made of 1"x5" boards.  There are three large windows for light and air circulation.

They require at least 10 hours of sunlight in order to lay eggs regularly.  And the ample air circulation keeps the flies away and the house less smelly.

For comfort and cleanliness we spread a thick layer of fine wood chips on the floor and in the laying boxes.  Chickens poop a lot, which is good for the garden but not for a living space.  By having a thick layer of wood chips it is easy to scoop up the droppings from beneath the roosts with a wide shovel, such as a snow shovel, and allows us to reduce major cleanings to once or twice a month.

Major cleaning involves removing all the used chips and droppings, then replacing it all with fresh chips.  At least once yearly the hen house needs to be emptied and hosed down.  Adding a mild disinfectant, such as vinegar, will help in keeping your chickens happy and healthy.

Don't throw the chips away, toss them and the poo onto the compost pile.

How many chickens should you get?  That depends on how much space you have and how many birds are permitted by local zoning laws.  In some cities although you can keep a chicken as a pet, you cannot have more than one or two.  Other towns have no zoning laws whatsoever regarding keeping chickens.  To find zoning laws for your area you can go to your city/town's official web-site and do a search for  "Zoning Regulations".   Or do a web-search for: ("Your City/St"zoning regulations)

Even if the zoning allows chickens, don't get a rooster without first talking with your neighbors.
Some people do not appreciate the crowing of a rooster at all hours of the night.

How large is your family?  How many eggs do they normally consume  daily?  Chickens may or may not produce an egg every day.  We have 14 hens and normally get 10-12 eggs daily.  During the winter months when daylight hours are fewer, and our hens molt, we get 3-4 eggs daily.

If you normally purchase a dozen eggs per week, then I would suggest 2-3 hens.

Another hurtle to getting your chicks is where you get them.  Most farm stores that sell chicks have a minimum, 6 or 12.   If there are farms in your area you may be able to buy just the few chicks you need. 

Backyard Farm: Start Small, then Expand

To give a better perspective of what can be accomplished in a small space I have collected a series of images showing the evolution of our backyard into a "farm".  It is my desire that these photos will help you with your decision whether or not to convert your limited space and maybe provide a few ideas of what can be accomplished in a small area.

In the beginning.....

In the beginning our backyard was a weekly chore of mowing grass and/or raking leaves and walnuts (there were 5 walnut trees, three maple and a massive pine).  There was a small 12' x 12' patio area and nothing else.

My first garden.  Six bags of potting mix.

year 1- 2011 and 2012

 In "Year 1" of our garden we started small, very small.  The garden consisted of 5 or 6 large bags of potting soil.  Into each bag I planted two tomato plants, two summer squash plants,
 
 cucumbers, and cantaloups.  It wasn't a big garden, but there was plenty of tomatoes, cukes, summer squash and zucchini to share.



Year 2 - 2013:  The gardening bug bit me and I knew I needed more space to grow so we dug up a bit of dirt.

and also added a three of raised beds.  We also decided we needed chickens, both for their eggs and for their "fertilizer".

 

We were able to get some free pallets, and built a hen house.  It's lucky the pallets were free, because the siding, nails and roofing were not.  Neither was the pressure treated 4"x4"x10" timbers upon which we set the house.

We also needed to buy fencing and posts to build a run with ample space for a dozen chickens (we had intended to buy only six chicks, but the farm store could only sell them in groups of 12).

After adding an old window we had and a coat of paint, and a few laying boxes, the hen house was ready.

Several 10' x 3/4" pvc pipes form the frames for supporting the plastic sheets which help to extend the growing season.

The garden had expanded to three raised beds and a dug out area about 16' x 16'. 

Year 3 - 2014:  Lots going on in our third year!

year 3

Matt is 6' tall/ the beans at this time were only half grown to their full height.

The garden continued to expand with the addition of two more raised beds, a 12' x 12' corn patch,  an 8' x 16' bean patch (for my Kentucky Wonder snap beans), and a dug out garden which has expanded to 20' x 30' (more or less).

20' x 30' garden, with raised beds behind, and corn patch behind the raised beds (behind the hoops)

In our third year we planted 32 tomaoto plants which produced 150 lbs of fruit.  The bean patch produced 36 jars of snap beans and 5+ pounds of dried beans for use as seed.  400 corn stalks produced an average of 2 ears per stalk; approximately 10 lbs each of yellow summer squash and zucchini; a half bushel of green bell peppers (for some reason the 5 plants didn't begin to produce until late August); also pumpkin, butternut and acorn squash.

In addition I tried planting onions and potatoes for the first time.  The onions didn't do very well, growing from onion sets only to ping pong ball size (I dried and saved them and replanted this year); the potatoes were just a couple of kitchen spuds which were beginning to sprout so instead of throwing them into the compost bin, I planted them.  They produced enough mid-ling sized spuds to add to a stew.

This was also the year we decided to try raising meat birds, chickens and turkeys.  We were able to raise and process 24 chickens and 2 turkeys (named Thanksgiving and Christmas).

Year 4 - 2015

This year we have made some big changes.   Goats, ducks and roosters.

 

This is in April, a view of the garden (r. front) chicken run (left)  new goat pen (new fence at center r to l)

view of the goat pen and garden from the hen house.

view of garden from hen house looking toward the house.

This is the view of the garden from the hen house looking toward the back of the house.
The garden is being fenced in order to keep critters out.

There is a chicken tractor (center right- hoops)
where we keep the Pekin ducklings. (meat)

The area in the lower right corner is the corn patch from last year.  This year:  winter squash.

We added two little goats to our farm.  These little sisters were born in January and will be ready to breed in November, increasing our livestock which we will sell, and they will produce milk for drinking, cheese, soap....

tomato rows, bell peppers, cucumbers

Last year I staked the tomato plants to 2" x 2" x 8' poles.  It worked fine, but meant I had to keep tying the growing plants to the stakes all season.

This year, since I have some cattle panels left over from the goat pen, I decided to try training the tomato plants to weave themselves in and out of the fencing, after all, tomato plants are vines to some degree.

I have also added crushed egg shells to each tomato plant hole.  The calcium is supposed produce sweeter fruit.

garden, chicken house and run

 On the right side of the photo is a green frame, made of pipe (salvaged) which has had wire woven up, down and across.  This is support for the cucumbers.
 Overview of the garden, chicken house and run, and goat pen.  (view if from a second floor window through window screen)

The bean patch is located out of view to the far lower left of the garden.

goat pen

Look carefully at the way the yard is set-up.
Every area fits neatly next to the next, and every inch is being used in the most efficient manner possible.

The total area is less than 1/4 acre.  Next year the plan is to expand into the front yard by adding an espaliered orchard with dwarf apple, peach and pear trees.

Our hope for the garden this year is to harvest another 150 pounds of tomatoes; at least a bushel of bell peppers; lettuce and herbs for the table; a bushel each of yellow summer squash and zucchini;
as many brussels sprouts as six plants can produce (first time growing these); at least 30 pounds of winter squash; green peas; rhubarb, strawberries, blueberries, 6 cabbages, onions and more......

There will also be an average one dozen eggs per day which we sell at $3 dz., 24 meat chickens, 2 turkeys for meat and two to sell; 10 pekin ducks for meat.

I do not use insect repellent in my garden.  As much as possible I manually remove bad bugs as I find them and feed them to the chickens who love them.

Also, only natural fertilizer is used such as compost I from my compost bins, or when necessary, I will buy organic compost when I don't have enough of my own.  I also feed the garden a regular feeding of chicken poo tea.  This is by far, the best fertilizer I have every used.

Backyard Farm: Compost, egg shells, and epsom salt

In order to have strong and health plants that produce lots of great tasting vegetables the plants should have a healthy diet.  Plants that have a well-balanced diet will pass on this on to you when you eat their vegetables.  On the other hand, plants grown in poor, under-fertilized soil will struggle to produce even a meager crop.   (We do not use commercially produced fertilizer in our garden.)

Compost is a primary source for a healthy garden fertilizer.  It is easy to create, but it does take time for the organic material to break down.  Start training your family to save kitchen scraps for the compost bin.  When you mow the lawn, provided it has not been chemically treated, add the clippings to the compost pile, along with twigs and small branches that have been chopped into small bits.

Following each addition of organic material, add a layer of garden soil, and give it a drink of water.
You will notice the pile begin to shrink down after a while as the organic matter breaks down.


My favorite fertilizer is chicken poo tea.  I feed this drink to my garden two or three times per week once the plants are established.  It's amazing, you can almost see the plants grow and produce lots of vegetables.

To make the Chicken Poo Tea:  When we clean out the hen house we begin by separating the poo from the wood chips.  Fill a barrel, or good sized tote, or other suitable container, about half-way with the chicken poo.  Next, fill the container with water and let it brew for a few days.

Depending on the strength of the tea it may need to be diluted before pouring it onto the garden soil.
If the container has a strong odor like that of a sewer or cesspool, it needs to be diluted.  You can add the brew to the garden with a watering can, a bucket or other system you may think of.

To make your tomatoes sweet they require calcium.  A good way to ensure they have get enough break up into a powder, the shells of several eggs and sprinkle it into the hole before adding the tomato plant.

Epsom salt is good for helping you to relax by adding it to the bath, but it is also useful in the garden to keep the plants healthy and help them resist disease.  Simply sprinkle a small amount throughout the garden. 

Backyard Farm

You've always dreamed of having a farm and growing your own food, raising animals and being self sufficient.  But how can you when you don't live out in the countryside?

You needn't own 40 acres with a barn, tractor and lots of farm animals to feed your family and live, a somewhat self-sufficient life-style.  Our little farm, is "in town" and is less than 1/2 acre.

Our homestead isn't completely self-sufficient, yet.  In fact we still have a long way to go to attain that goal.  But, we are working on it, and getting nearer to achieving it each year.

We own a home with a basement and an attached garage.  It is located on Main Street, on a corner

lot.  Next, behind us is a small, early education school, grades k-3, and a church across the street to our north side.  Our view from the front of our property includes a vast wooded area and a river directly across the road.  Because of this view we can trick ourselves into believing we live in a very, rural area.

The reason I share this information is to show you that it isn't necessary to have acres and acres of land and outbuildings to own a farm.

Over the last three years we have transformed our manicured backyard into mostly vegetable garden
and chicken yards.  The only out-building so far is a chicken house built from discarded pallets and

plywood.  The only materials purchased were the 1-11 siding, fencing and fence posts.  The remaining materials were salvaged.  The chicken house measure 8'x10'x8''high.  Last year we installed a chicken wire wall with door, to divide the building into two areas.  One side with its own exit to a run for the laying hens.  The opposite side also has an exit to another run.  This is where we house the meat chickens until they are old enough to go outdoors. 

It's important not to build a relationship with the meat chickens since they are food, not pets as the laying hens are.

We keep 15 laying hens which share 6 laying boxes.  We raise meat chickens 10-12 at a time.  The meat chickens remain in the hen house until they are old enough to be moved outdoors.  At that time they are moved into a chicken tractor set in a grassy area in section of the yard set aside for this purpose. 

ABOUT CHICKENS:

If you choose to raise meat chickens for your family table begin by deciding how much chicken you cook during the year.  We cook whole chicken 2-3 times per month and we get two or three meals from each 3-4 pound bird.  We allowed our first meat flock to grow until they were about 16 weeks old as long as they weren't having leg problems due to their weight.

At 16 weeks, the meat birds weighed an average of 4+ lbs dressed.

We raised 24 meat chickens our first year.  This year we will raise 36 for the freezer, and 12 more for our daughter.

FEEDING THE CHICKENS:

All our chickens primarily feed by foraging, eating grass, insects and even tiny critters (we saw one eat a mouse!).  We do not medicate them or give them hormones or anything un-natural.  We supplement their foraging with pellets, mixed grains and cracked corn.  We also feed them plenty of table and garden scraps.  In return they lay big, beautiful eggs with strong shells and richly hued yolks. 

Your chickens also require plenty of fresh, clean water.  We have tried out several watering containers since we first started raising chickens three years ago.  This winter we found the best water container was a wide, black water bowl about 6 inches deep; non-metal.  Since it is not metal it takes longer for the water to freeze, and during the day, the sun-light warms the black container to help keep the water from freezing.

KEEPING THEM WARM DURING THE COLD WINTER:

At first we kept a light burning inside the hen house all winter.  It produced a small amount of heat and also tricked the girls into laying eggs all winter. 

This winter, with temperatures plummeting well below zero at night, we used a ceramic heater instead.  The cost was about the same as the light bulb, but the house maintained a warmer temperature.  The hens laid fewer eggs, but still enough to provide for our egg customers.

The only time they egg production fell considerably was while they were molting.  Fortunately, they didn't all molt at the same time.

GETTING YOUR FLOCK:

You've decided you want to raise chickens, either for eggs or meat or both.  Where do get them?
What breed should you buy?  How old should they be?  How many should you get?  What do you do when you get them home?  

WHERE TO GET YOUR FLOCK:
If you live in an area with farms you may be able to purchase chicks directly from a local farmer for a little as $1 per chick and generally have no limit, small or large, to the number you can purchase.  The price usually go up as the chicks age.

Next, the local farm supply store such as the Tractor Store, but there is usually a minimum number you must purchase and the price will be a little higher and also differentiate among breed and gender.Hens cost more; straight runs cost least but you don't know what you are getting.

Alternately you can browse the internet for breeders who ship.  These breeders offer a broader variety of breeds, cost more, and be prepared to purchase at least 15 chicks, more during the cooler months.
The reason for this large amount is for the chicks well-being.  Since the newborns don't have feathers they get cold quickly.  They benefit from the body heat of the group. 

It generally takes about two days to the chicks to travel from breeder to your post office.  So when they arrive they will be hungry and thirsty.  Fortunately, during their journey they have been sustained by the "feeding" they received prior to hatching.

WHAT BREED SHOULD YOU GET?
Are you raising meat chickens or egg layers?

Meat chickens are usually a rock-cornish mix breed.  They are bred for meat, and therefore they are constantly eating and grow at an amazing rate.  Harvest them at about 10-12 weeks for fryers/broilers weighing about 3 pounds.  At 12-16 weeks, weighing about 4 pounds dressed, they are perfect on the rotisserie, or in a roaster.

Laying hens are a different matter.  Personal preference, climate, temperament, egg shell color are
your primary concerns.

First, what breed do you like as far as their appearance is concerned?  Rhode Island Reds, White Leghorns,  black Sex-links, how about a lavender Orpington? 

What is your climate?  Do you live where the winter lows drop to -20F or 80F?  Does it rain most of the time or do you live in a desert?  Researching the breeds that appeal to you most will tell you in which climates they will either flourish or struggle to survive.

Believe it or not chickens have personalities.  Don't laugh, they really do.  By the time they are old enough to begin laying eggs, usually around 5 months of age, you will find they have definite personalities.  This is when you will find yourself giving them names.

When I first got my hens I had a list of names already for them.  But as the months passed, none of the names suited any of them. 

There is a Black Sex-link with a pushy, boisterous character.  She is well-behaved, but is always the first to reach the kitchen door and "call" out to us.  She chatters loud and long throughout the day....so I named her after one of my daughters who happens to have similar characteristics. 

Then there is our favorite, Lucky Penny, one of three Astrolorpes.  She started life as Henny Penny, but after being the only one of the trio to survive a hawk attack it was determined that she was indeed a Lucky Penny.  She will never see the inside of a soup pot.

Lucky Penny is friendly and loves receiving attention from adults and children alike.  She loves to be picked up and stroked, and will sit quietly for long periods on a lap.

Lucky Penny and her first egg

Did you know that not all egg shells are like the brown or white ones you see in the supermarket?

Example:  Our White Leg-horns lay the white eggs you see at the store.  But our White Rocks lay a pale, off-white or pale tan colored shell.  The Rhode Island Reds lay the common brown egg seen in the store, but our Lucky Penny, an Astrolorpe, lays a pinkish shell.  

image from www.maplegroveplace.blogspot.com

And our Americaunas lay an aqua colored shell.  The breeds known as Easter Eggers lay a blue-green shelled egg, or blue, or olive green.  There is a breed that even lays an egg with a deep chocolate brown shell.   Some shells are plain, other are speckled.





If you intend to sell eggs, free-range, non-medicated, colorful eggs will fetch the best prices.  I have seen them selling for as much as $7.50 for a half-dozen at an Organic Market!

HOW OLD AND HOW MANY?
 If you are eager to start collecting eggs and want to begin with hens which are already laying you will be paying a premium price.  Therefore those eggs on your breakfast plate will be quite expensive for awhile.

On the other hand, if you don't mind a providing a little extra care and waiting a few months your breakfast meal will be more palatable, and getting it will be more fun.

How many hens do you want?  Is there a city ordinance which will even permit you to own chickens in your neighborhood?  This information can generally be found on-line by going to your city or town's web-site.  The ordinance will indicate where chickens can be raised and how many you can own, and any additional restrictions.

What do you plan to do with the eggs?  Feed only your small family of 2 or 3 people; or, do you want to be able to sell a few dozen each week?

Each chicken will lay an egg a day.... as long as she gets enough daylight, food and water.
Until she molts.  During molting her body is concentrating its energy in replacing all the feathers on her body so she ceases laying eggs.

During the winter when there are fewer daylight hours, she will lay eggs less often.  This can be altered by keeping a light in the hen house for a few extra hours in the evening thus tricking the hens into thinking the days are still long.

WHAT TO DO WHEN THE CHICKS COME HOME:
Assuming you have purchased your chicks via mail-order they will arrive at your post office inside a cardboard box with air holes.  Your babies will have been traveling in that box for a couple of days and will be frightened, hungry and thirsty.

If you purchased from a local farmer or farm store they will have already been taught to drink and have been eating and drinking.

With your traveling chicks you will need a clean, warm brooder (a box or protected area with wood chips, water dish and food dish, and heat source such as a heat lamp or other light bulb which provides warmth.  Chicks require a constant temperature of at least 70 degrees F)

Carefully take each chick from its traveling box and set it into the brooder.  Dip its beak to the water once or twice.  It doesn't take much effort for it to get the idea.  Transfer the remaining chicks to the brooder, once they see the first chick drink they will get the idea and join in.

Occasionally a chick won't survive the journey from the hatchery to its new home.

Once in their brooder, all that's needed from you is fresh water, food, and clean wood chips. 

In a few weeks, 5 or 6, they will have grown their feathers and will no longer require additional heat and can begin to go outside into a well protected area.


~to be continued

This article is meant to be an introduction to the subject of your tiny farm.  There is a great deal of additional information available.  There is lots of great information provided by other bloggers and I encourage you to read as much of it as you can.

This article is also part one of series of articles I will be posting regarding caring for your flock, growing your food and preserving it for the year, goats or cows for dairy products, how to go from a "spend it as quick as you earn it" life-style to a "make every cent count" life-style, and much more.

Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Enjoy!


~Kathleen